Bart Vranken
Guide Interprete National

La Combe 24620 Les Eyzies France
tel. : +33.(0)5.53.35.56.27 mob. : +33.(0)6.83.29.59.45
e-mail : bvranken@aol.com

0 30.01.1961 St. Amandsberg Belgium

Degrees in Prehistory, History, Art-history and Philosophy
(Chicago Art Institute – U.S., Rijksuniversiteit Gent –
Belgium, Universite de Bordeaux 1 – France).

“Guide Interprete National” Prehistory, History, Art-history,
Licence-card no : G.N. 02.24.09 Archeology, Architecture,
Landscapes, Nature.
Guide, Interpreter, Lecturer.
Independent and autonomous :
Nederlands, English, no URSSAF : 240 266393362
Francais, Deutsch. no SIRET : 389 314 360 00022

Duration, means of transport, themes and sites of your excursion
can be customized to your wishes.

Ref. : “Finally, my particular thanks to historian Bart Vranken for
his invaluable insights, and for his companionship while tramping
through little-known and neglected ruins of the Perigord.”
Michael Crichton, in “Timeline” : Acknowledgments, p. 446.

Some of our walks may not be suitable for people with a fear of heights.
The great thing about Walking Dordogne is that our walks are not planned months or weeks ahead, we usually plan the walks together with the customer the day before, depending on the wishes and preferences of the customer, this way we can make sure everyone gets to see what they want to see. If the walks are done in combination, with canoeing or horse riding, then these walks are usually planned ahead, to guarentee the use of the horses or canoes.

As of April 10th 2008 we will be adding “Hell’s Gorge” to our already fantastic list of day trips. This trip will take you to some wonderful and exciting places somewhere along the Vezere Valley. Caves, rock overhangs & shelters, trogladytes, ruin of a templars hospital, ancient villages excellent views of the Vezere Valley and lots more. This trip is suitable for all ages, a certain level of fitness is required ( lot’s of uphill and climbing & crawling) and lasts about 4-5 hours. Remember, these caves, shelters, troglodytes, caverns are NOT mentioned in any books, or on any maps.

Below are some pics taken on this trip.

To see the REAL Dordogne, visit: www.walkingdordogne.com

Walking Dordogne’s choice of accommodation in Les Eyzies de Tayac:

B&B Ferme de Tayac. Lovely B&B in a 12th Century former farmhouse / monastery situated ideally in the hart of the Vezere Valley and just 5 minutes from Les Eyzies, the Prehistoric Capital of the World

http://www.fermedetayac.com/ 

A special Thank You to Monsieur P Reijnen for sharing these rare postcards with us.

We specialize in web sites for the Dordogne region. We know how extremely difficult it is to get your name or business onto the search engines. We do not just design web sites, we help you get your site seen by potential customers from around the world.

Designing a web site is the easiest part, getting people to find your site amongst the more than 92 Billion!! (indexed by google in 2006) sites can be tricky and very expensive.
I have designed more than 20 Dordogne related sites to help advertise your web site after it has been launched.

Let Dordogne Design put you on the web, can you afford not to?

Here are some stats that show the importance of a web site:

Key facts and figures from 1 March 2007

• Over 3.1 million tourists
• Average length of stay (all accommodation): 10 days
• Representing almost 31 million nights’ accommodation
• A direct turnover of at least 980 million euros
• Over 6,000 permanent jobs in tourism (6900 in July & Aug.)
• Tourism in the Dordogne represents over 31% of the local economy

More facts and figures.

• 77% booked part of their vacation online. (airline, ferry, rental car etc)
• 93% of visitors researched the area online before visiting.
• 71 % of visitors booked accommodation online

5 years ago, these figures would have all been below 30%, and 10 years ago they would have all been below 3%, however, in 3 year time they will ALL be above 90%

These figures show the importance of a web site, and no one can design, host, advertize and optimize your dordogne related site better than Dordogne Design .
Dordogne Design, owned by de Paulus  who knows how to put the Dordogne and your site / buisness on the web.
With more than 20 Dordogne related web sites that are already high on the mayor Search Engines list are ready to advertise your site.
Advertising a site designed by Dordogne Design on all our parent sites is FREE, saving you hundreds of Euro’s, and focusing only on the Dordogne which will attract only people that are searching for Dordogne related sites.

 Dordogne Design does not design web sites for a living, which means the prices are as low as you will ever find, and your web site is a de Paulus Project, which means he will always be there for you whenever you need help or  advice.
Get in touch with Dordogne Design and see what they can do for you… Can you afford not to?  

Recommended accommodation in Les Eyzies de Tayac:

B&B Ferme de Tayac. Lovely B&B in a 12th Century former farmhouse / monastery situated ideally in the hart of the Vezere Valley and just 5 minutes from Les Eyzies, the Prehistoric Capital of the World
http://www.fermedetayac.com/

In and around the town of Les Eyzies-de-Tayac are a series of prehistoric rock dwellings, the caves include some of the most significant archaeological finds of the Upper Paleolithic (from about 40,000 to10,000 years ago) and Middle Paleolithic (200,000 to 40,000 years ago) periods they are especially noted for their extensive wall drawings.Situated in the Vézère Valley the Les Eyzies de Tayac caves are among a series of decorated grottoes in the area that were collectively designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1979.

Please take your time to browse around Artists Display, and discover the potential benefits we could offer you and your art, and if you have any questions don’t hesitate to contact us

To celebrate the launch of Artists Display on Feb. 1st 2008, we are giving away 10 free 1 year memberships worth $130 on a first come first serve basis contact us  to have your account setup by us FREE before Febuary

• Free Link Exchange: 
  We will add your link to our website with a short discription of about 40 words, in return you must add our link to your web site. The link must be accessible within 2 clicks from the home page. Price: Free Artists Display Link Exchange
• Artist’s showcase:
  Your ad will be prominently featured for one month. You can include a link to your website, an image, logo, product, artwork, etc. and up to 80 words of text. Price: $8 a month
• In the spotlight:
  You and / or your art will be put in the spotlight for a whole month, a very good way to get noticed. Includes 2 small images or a small slideshow, detailed discription of up to 300 words, and a link to your website and / or your Artists Display Studio. Price: $15 a month

  Artists Studio:   Add , show and sell your art here at the STUDIO, add up to 100 art items, customers can browse your art, and purchse directly online.  Price: $90 a year + a one time setup fee of $40

  Personal Studio:  Have your own personal studio setup by us. Sell up to 10 items online. We will be adding different styles in the coming future. See an example HERE  Price: $220 a year this includes a personal Email address, for example johndoe@artistsdisplay.com
ARTISTS DISPLAY : www.artistsdisplay.com

Caves decorated with art from the late Paleolithic period, approximately 10,000 to 30,000 years ago, have been found only in France, Spain, Italy, Portugal, Russia and Mongolia. The largest cluster of Paleolithic art caves dot the Dordogne department of southwestern France the Vezere Valley, which is honeycombed ,with limestone caves and towering cliff shelters eaten out by glaciers and underground rivers as long as 140 million years ago. In this underground network, with constant temperature and humidity and isolation from light, the art has been very well preserved.

The most exciting sites open to visitors in the Dordogne include Lascaux, Font-de-Gaume, with drawings of bison, horses and deer; Combarelles, where Stone Age people left more than 300 engravings, and Cap Blanc, offering 14 animals gracefully sculptured in deep relief.

Cave art had been seen by villagers as least as far back as the 16th century, according to graffiti in the vast cavern at Rouffignac. But it was assumed to be modern until an explorer announced in 1880 that the paintings in the Altamira cave were prehistoric.

The notion of art as ancient as 30,000 years before the birth of Christ was met with skepticism on the ground that it conflicted with Christian belief. Only in the 20th century did scientists agree that humans indeed discovered how to artfully draw, sculpture and carve engravings during the Stone Age.

The Louvre of all the caverns is Lascaux. The cave entrance, less than a mile south of Montignac on the Vezere River, was sealed from harmful air for centuries by landslides. After trees covering the entrance were uprooted by a storm, four teen-agers seeking buried treasure discovered the cave in 1940.

Opened to tourists in 1948, Lascaux had to be closed in 1963 after green algae and white calcium deposits attacked the paintings. An exact copy built in cement nearby was inaugurated in November 1984. The cement cannot be harmed by bacteria and outside air and the paintings are covered with a transparent film.

Contrary to widespread belief, the original Lascaux, guarded by a wire fence and two German shepherds, can be seen by qualified people. Applicants connected with science, journalism, teaching, art, museums, even politics, have received invitations after waiting for months.

On an authorized visit one recent day, a guide, Jacques Marsal, led the way past the dogs and wooden towers with instruments that record humidity, temperature and air pressure in the cave, monitored by the Pasteur Institute in Paris. Visitors must wet the soles of their shoes in antiseptic and descend to the dark, cold cave through three anterooms that keep out air. Then the electric lights go on, and the stereotype of the Stone Age brute is crushed. The cave gleams with delicate drawings in ocher and brick red, outlined in deepest black by artists who were obviously sensitive people. Deer with graceful horns, drawn with sensual lines, recall works of Picasso. The guide’s flashlight plays on a splendid herd of deer, apparently clambering out of water, each with a different expression, each in a different position.

On the cold stone walls, a calf stumbles before a three-sided square that could depict a trap. A horse falls over a cliff, its face showing fright, possibly depicting organized stampedes to slaughter animals.

”The artists painted the outline of each animal all in one movement without hesitation, quite a feat,” says the guide.

The final shock is emerging from the Stone Age cave to see white trails from jet fighters crisscrossing the blue sky. A two-minute walk downhill stands Lascaux II, the cement reproduction built by the owner of the land and the state, now the proprietor.

Molded above ground by 12 Brazilian, Greek and French sculptors over nine years, the cave is a feat in itself as the cement truly resembles rock. A French artist worked seven years with prehistoric tools and pigments to copy the paintings from photographs. The copiers even repeated holes where the prehistoric artists had inserted logs to stand on so they could reach a high ceiling to paint a circle of horses reminiscent of Chinese art.

The reproduction is impressive. But the ancient Lascaux, like any original artwork, is worth the wait. Lascaux II lacks the impact of antiquity, and the drawings appear flat because the real Lascaux walls glisten with crystals.

Some 200 paintings and 1,500 engravings decorate Lascaux I, which is 819 feet long. Lascaux II, 131 feet long, displays 100 or so paintings and no engravings.

Those startling handprints are a frequent motif in art of the late Paleolithic period. Handprints fringe paintings in the Pech Merle grotto, including one of a black polka-dotted horse. Two hundred fifteen handprints, usually of the left hand, decorate the Gargas cave in the Hautes-Pyrenees department near Spain.

Experts say 11 footprints at Pech Merle were those of a woman and child. They believe women and children often visited the caves to see the art, or to worship. The caves are believed to have been sanctuaries, devoted to the worship of animals, magic or the hunt, but scientists do not know for sure. The guides emphasize that prehistoric people were not ”cave men.” Because of the dampness of grottos and the need to build fires, Cro-Magnon people lived only at cave entrances, in minuscule caves or under overhangs of giant cliffs.

Patterns emerge in their art. Most of the subjects are grass-eaters such as horses, bison, deer, reindeer and ibex. Less numerous are meat-eating mammoths and rhinoceroses, which once roamed France, boars, wolves and fox, plus fish, birds and reptiles. A fish was engraved on the ceiling of a riverside shelter north of Les Eyzies, a Dordogne town dotted with prehistoric sites that calls itself the Prehistoric Capital of the World.

Drawings of humans are rare and not realistic. Men appear more often than women (although many prehistoric statuettes of women have been dug from sites throughout the world). In Lascaux, a man falls dead before a bull pierced with a spear, its entrails dangling. Arrows were thrust into men drawn at Lascaux, Pech Merle and Cougnac, north of Cahors. Evidence of war? Experts say flints have not been found in Paleolithic skeletons, but they have in later Neolithic graves after agriculture was discovered and people became property owners, and thus could have been defenders and aggressors.

The Cro-Magnons painted under the light of small stone lamps, which have been found in cave digs. They applied charcoal, ocher or red and yellow pigments of oxidized iron with brushes or their fingers or dabbed on colors with fur or blew them through tubes. Engravings were made with bone, horn or stone.

The art is seldom seen near cave entrances, perhaps for religious reasons - or because paintings near airy entrances did not last. The gigantic grotto at Rouffignac offers a mile and a half ride on a small train to view paintings of mammoths, some overdrawn with graffiti of modern explorers.

At Cap Blanc, near Les Eyzies, a 14,000-year-old frieze of five horses, carved in relief, rivaling those of ancient Greece, was even more ruined by the pickaxes of overenthusiastic diggers in the 20’s.

A visitor can see the major Paleolithic caves in the Dordogne within a week. 

Most tours are in French, although descriptive pamphlets in English, Spanish and German are sold in most grottos. Large luxury chain hotels are absent, in favor of small, comfortable hotels.

Perigord and Quercy restaurants serve local specialties such as foie gras, truffles, walnuts and wild mushrooms. Canoeing and swimming in rivers and visiting more chateaus than are found in the Loire valley are other temptations.

But the passion for prehistory is catching. At La Madeleine, a site near Les Eyzies, prehistoric families lived in a riverside cliff shelter to be near fish. In the ninth century, about 80 people lived higher up, apparently so they could hurl stones on invading Vikings. The visitor turns away from the cliffside village, disappointed. Ninth century? That’s modern.

Our recommended accommodation near Lascaux and all the other Vezere Valley Caves:

B&B Ferme de Tayac. Lovely B&B in a 12th Century former farmhouse / monastery situated ideally in the hart of the Vezere Valley and within 20 minutes from Lascaux, and walking distance from Font de Gaume and Les Eyzies  http://www.fermedetayac.com/

1. Lascaux II- Lascaux is considered to be the number one prehistoric site in all of Europe. The paintings on the site date from 17,000 to 15,000 years ago. Shortly after that the cave entrances were closed by mudslides or other natural means, and thus the paintings were perfectly preserved until the modern era. The cave was rediscovered in 1940 by two local boys who were chasing their dog, and several years later it was opened to the public. However, in 1963 it was closed again, as it was discovered that too many people in the cave were causing the paintings to deteriorate. Since then only a few scientists, scholars or art historians per day were allowed in for several hours maximum. For the past few years even those limited visits have been stopped, as new signs of further deterioration have been observed. The French government, however, took up a 10 year project to make an exact duplicate of the cave. This effort, which opened in 1983, uses exactly the same pigments that were used by the Cro-Magnon artists thousands of years ago, and is dimensionally accurate to less than one inch of error. It is called Lascaux II, and is located only about 400 yards from the original cave.

The quality of the artwork is the main reason that Lascaux is considered the finest example of prehistoric cave paintings. Done with only oil lamps for light and using high scaffolding, the prehistoric artists who created this site were highly accomplished artists. Most of the guided visits to Lascaux II are conducted in French, but there are tours in English on most days. One needs to call the Lascaux ticket office in Montignac or the Montignac Office of Tourism to find out if and when there is an English tour on any given day. If you have a group they will probably set up an English tour for you and other English speakers, but this needs to be arranged in advance through the ticket office. Even though Lascaux II is a replica and not the original, it is very well done, very informative, and not to be missed.

2. St. Leon sur Vezere- This is another of the “Most Beautiful Villages of France”. Built in a picturesque loop of the Vezere river, this charming village possesses two castles and one of the finest Romanesque churches of the Perigord. The church was part of a Benedictine priory which was founded in the 12th century. It was built on the ruins of a Gallo-Roman villa. The remains of one of the villa’s walls can be seen on the river side. There is a picnic area next to the church on the banks of the river, and a café is nearby as well. This is an excellent spot to have a pleasant lunch or a refreshing drink.

3. La Roque St. Christophe (St. Christopher’s Rock) is a huge Troglodyte cave complex. For about a half mile in length this majestic cliff rises vertically above the Vezere valley to a height of over 250ft. It is like a huge hive with about 100 caves hollowed out of the rock on five tiers. Excavations have proved that the cliff dwellings were inhabited from the Upper Paleolithic Age onwards. In the 10th century the cliff terraces served as the foundation for a fortress which was used against the Vikings, and again later during the Hundred Years War. It was subsequently destroyed during the Wars of Religion at the end of the 16th century. The self-guided tour explains the evolution of human life at La Roque St. Christophe, which took place over many centuries . In fact even Neanderthal fossils have been found at this site and at other locations nearby.

4. Chateau de Losse- This renaissance chateau sits on the right bank of the Vezere river, and it has a large terrace that overlooks the river and offers picturesque views. The chateau is well known for its excellent furniture and tapestries, which can be seen on the guided tours. The tours are in French, but foreign language guides are available, and these are easy to follow so one does not miss anything. The tours are quite good, and one can also visit the well kept gardens and stroll around the outside of the chateau in the former moat area.

As stated earlier, these four venues in the Vezere Valley between Les Eyzies de Tayac and  Montignac can easily be visited in one day, since they are relatively close and do not take too long to visit any of them. If one is staying nearby, in Les Eyzies de Tayac, for example, only about 25 kilometers away, a visit to these sites is well worth the effort.

Our recommended accommodation to visit these 4 venues:
B&B Ferme de Tayac. Lovely B&B in a 12th Century former farmhouse / monastery situated ideally in Les Eyzies de Tayac, the hart of the Vezere Valley and within 20 minutes from all of these attractions.
http://www.fermedetayac.com/

Contrary to appearances, the name of the Dordogne is not a recent word resulting from the names of the Dore and the Dogne. It comes from an ancient Durānius, dérived from a preceltic root dur-, dor- (as the Durance).

The medieval forms adopted a redoubled suffix -ononia : Dorononia fluvius (sixth century), Dornonia (eighth century) that evolves in Dordonia (ninth century) by a phenomenon of dissimilation, giving the impression of an etymology *Dore-Dogne.

Geography

The river rises on the flanks of Puy de Sancy (1 885 m) in the mountains of Auvergne, from the confluence of two small torrents above the town of Mont-Dore: the Dore and the Dogne. It flows generally west about 500 km through the Limousin and Périgord regions before flowing into the Gironde, its common estuary with the Garonne, at the “Ambès beak”, in the north of the city of Bordeaux.

Nature

The Dordogne is one of the few rivers in the world that exhibits the phenomenon known as a tidal bore. The Valley of the Dordogne is quite beautiful and contributes significantly to the attractiveness of the region. The main season for tourism in the Valley of the Dordogne is from June to September with July and August being high tide.

Course

The départements of France through which the Dordogne River runs, together with some towns in those départements that are on or quite near the River, are as follows:

• The département of Puy-de-Dôme - the towns of Mont-Dore (near the source of the River), La Bourboule
• The département of Corrèze - the towns of Argentat and Bort-les-Orgues
• The département of Lot - The town of Souillac
• The département of Dordogne - The towns of Beynac-et-Cazenac, Sarlat, Saint-Cyprien, and Bergerac
• The département of Gironde - the towns of Sainte-Foy-la-Grande and Libourne

Tributaries

Dordogne River in the PérigordMain tributaries from source to mouth:

(R) Rhue
(R) Diège
(R) Luzège
(L) Sumène
(L) Auze
(R) Doustre
(L) Maronne
(L) Cère
(R) Sourdoire
(L) Ouysse
(R) Vézère along which many of the great prehistoric caves of Southwest France are located
(R) Isle
(L) Laurence
N.B. : (R) = right tributary; (L) = left tributary

Canoeing on the Dordogne River